A Sport that everybody admires
The Pioneer of surf movies, Bruce Brown, once said getting rich did not matter to us.
Much more important was the freedom to do what we wanted. That’s what the culture of surfing is about. Today we find a sport that enjoys a high reputation around the world.
The Early Days
But surfing finds its origin even further back than in the descriptions of Bruce Brown from the 60s. You’ll read in most books which revolve around surfing - it is undisputed that Hawaiians were master surfers as early as the second half of the 18th century.
They learned very quickly about the mechanisms of the waves and they loved to master them with handcrafted surfboards.
After a decade of socio-political changes and suppression of Hawaiian peoples, the first tourists arrived in Hawaii at the beginning of the 20th century and a journalist started to report about the local surfer. Surfing experienced its first renaissance.
More Than A Sport
Thanks to Bud Browne who really cultivatedsurf movies along the California coast in the 50s and 60s the circle of surfers began to grow. Soon many filmmakers started to copy his style and spread the interest. The music industry began to recognize the young, wild scene and bands like the Beach Boys started to become famous.
A Global Effect
Then the surf world experienced an innovative change in the 70s the Leash was developed and rapidly found acceptance. Previously, a surfer wouldn’t risk the loss of his board trying to air. Now surfers started to experiment with shorter boards and tricks. Surfing gained more and more popularity which meant that it became more and more commercialized. Prize money, professional contracts and sponsorship increasingly spread among the best surfers. The World Surf League was born and the rest is history.
Knowing a little bit more about the sport that we love might give you a different perspective about the culture that so many love and live.